#17 Sarah Kampf

It's impossible to talk German climbing scene without mentioning Sarah Kampf. She got into this sport as a teen and it didn't take her long to start ticking off notable routes - all the way up to securing the first female 8c ascent in the Frankenjura… and beyond, for she hasn't slacked off since.

Sarah's ticklist today includes nine 8c lines, a three 8b+/c and over 540 routes graded 8a and above! She's also stood on the podium on many German Cups, as well as coming second in the overall qualification in both lead and speed... although she's never enjoyed competing as much as she loves climbing outdoors.

Her first ever ‘proper’ climb was indeed outdoors, and she describes it as an experience that has not only initiated her passion but also shaped her approach. Sarah was 14 when a friend took her along for a climbing trip to southern France. Before that, she had been briefly introduced to climbing at the age of six, when her parents’ friends took her on a hike that included some scrambling and abseiling. Ever since, climbing rocks hovered in her mind; the trip to France awakened something that had slumbered inside her. She instantly fell in love with climbing, as well as what it brings along: days out in nature, time spent with friends and travel. She’s kept these values until today, now sharing them with her husband and two sons.

The trip was soon over and Sarah - back at home. She’s lucky to come from the mountainous Allgäu: not a bad place to live for someone who wants to get into climbing. She took to discovering local crags and gyms and soon got introduced to the local climbing community around Maxi Klaus and Ole Herrenkind, who taught her about trying hard whilst always enjoying the social aspects of climbing. It was about that time that she gave cross-country ski racing up and fully focused on climbing. The local crags, such as Rottachberg or Starzlachklamm, must have kept her busy because despite the reasonable distance she didn’t make it to the German climbers’ mecca (also known as the Frankenjura) for three whole years.

Sarah’s first visit to Fränkische Schweiz was in 1998. For the 17-year-old it was a land of freedom. She would spend time with friends outdoors, sleep under the stars and explore how far she could push her climbing. The style of climbing in the area seemed just made for her. The trip was one of many; she’d soon find herself in Franken on many weekends and holidays.

As soon as she finished her A-levels, it was time to travel and climb as much as possible, with quite a lot of time spent in the Frankenjura. She got to know many locals and was introduced to the abundant climbing potential. She felt free and really enjoyed this intensive time. The results came almost straight away: Sarah climbed her first 10- (UIAA), Witchcraft - also her 50RP route. The impressive, gently curved wall offers brilliant climbing, this line from Michl Ordnung being central to its popularity.

A little behind the scenes insight: the photos on the left are some early poster tests.
Click here to view the 50RP Posters.

Early 2000s was the time when she juggled competitions and rock, although she’d already started noticing how much more fun the days out in nature were for her. She felt she’d much rather be there than in the gym. For her, competing brought about a kind of pressure which she had already disliked as a cross-country skier and she did not want to have it in her climbing. This led her to quitting competitions in 2004 and thus giving herself more time to do what she enjoyed the most.

Her performance went steadily up and her Excel ticklist got impressive additions. Through multiple routes between 8a and 8b+/c she reached the 8c level with Steinbock in 2009 - the iconic roof line by Markus Bock at Orakel. She became the first woman overall to tick this grade in the Frankenjura. It wasn’t a one-off; Sarah has kept her performance consistently high ever since, both on sport climbs and boulders.

Sarah's ticklist from 2009, around the time of Steinbock. Credit: Sarah Kampf

Luck was on her side and soon after her historic feat Sarah’s career had her move completely from Munich – where she had moved to for her studies – to Fränkische Schweiz (we’re sure she felt absolutely forced!). This made trips out easier to organise and the regularity possible to maintain as she became a mother in 2015.

Her hardest lines in Franken include many modern classics: Battle Cat, Intercooler, Headcrash, Roof Warrior, Sound of Silence, Odd Fellows, New Orleans Heavy Weight Division. She’s also sent 29 boulders between 8A and 8A+, including Laktat (2004), Kalte Sophie (2012) or Robert Hall (2025) in Frankenjura, or some Ticino classics such as Teamwork or Frank’s Wild Years.

Asked about her Franken favourites, Sarah hesitates slightly. “To be honest, I don’t really have one favourite route. Even though undeniably I get inspired by striking lines such as Battle Cat, Headcrash or Nosegrind, I enjoy the variety of climbing, it is what I love the most about Franken. Sometimes it’s the routes that at first glance don’t look very appealing that offer some of the coolest moves. I like going down the memory lane back to Steinbock in 2009, but since then I’ve climbed many routes and boulders, each of which made me feel fulfilled at the time.”

Similarly, Sarah can’t pick a favourite crag but rather enjoys the endless possibilities for discovery that Franken gives her, even after 15 years of calling it her home and 27 years since she climbed here for the very first time. The numerous, mainly smaller crags are the area’s advantage and should be used! “My advice would therefore be to stay curious and dare visit unknown crags. It’s (almost :) always worth it; plus, you will most likely find some quiet moments away from the crowds!”

Sarah does stay curious - and very active. Her ticklist continues growing and her love for the outdoors has never faded; she feels as good as ever in the Franconian forests.

"Franken is my home. There is always something loveable about it, regardless of the season. And I guess I will never run out of projects here!” The abundant rock is at the root of this affection and Sarah feels grateful to live with such a playground right outside her door, providing the opportunity to balance family, climbing and work. Over the years she has learned to value the area’s other virtues, though. “Besides climbing, there’s wonderful times to be had here, for example hiking or mountain biking, and that’s what we enjoy a lot as a family.”

And whilst climbing at her limit is still something that drives Sarah, her approach has shifted over the years, becoming more playful and less expectation-driven. “I still love trying hard as much as I did in the early years of my climbing, and I feel blessed that I can live this passion. However, with having a family, priorities have changed of course. It is heartwarming to see my kids enjoy climbing, too, which is still very present in our family. However, it is important to leave enough space for other facets of life as well, to be open for change and to keep a balance that works for all.”

Thank you, Sarah, for being a part of 50RP - and for your tips!