Moving on from using aid to climbing fully free was natural progres for Werner. Even when starting out with his father, they’d attempt to climb as many parts of the route as possible (as opposed to pulling on gear). In his own words: “It’s always been Climbing”. They would pull on a bolt or use a step ladder when the passage seemed impossible otherwise. Seeking further challenge, free climbing was the obvious way forward for him. With it, there came more possibilities and new routes that could be opened and enjoyed. It didn't take long for Werner to far exceed his father in terms of climbing skills. Whilst Mr. Karl Thon opened routes in the 5th grade, his son would go and tick off almost all hard lines that the early 1990s Franknejura had to offer. Especially after getting his driving license, and together with it the freedom to go climbing whenever he pleased, Werner would do close to nothing else. Soon he needed new challenges so he went on and created them himself; and not without an excellent eye for the line. In the 90s, it was Werner's standard to open a good hard line every year. He'd concentrate on a new route throughout the summer and by autumn or winter, Franken would be (at least) one beauty of a first ascent richer. Showdown, Werner's 50RP route and own creation, came in 1994. It may be shorter than the other classics at Trautner Gedenkwand but its aesthetic certainly earns the "wow". The line follows an arched bulge of dark rock, commencing with powerful moves on small holds in a big overhang, through an extremely demanding traverse that requires technique, strength and precision. To top it up, the finishing meters consist of techy long moves on a near-vertical wall. All this is contained in about 12 metres and 5 bolts, amounting to a notoriously hard 11-. It's Werner's hardest line - and it's well-known for its difficulty in the grade. This could be one of the reasons why it has seen relatively few repeats, despite its prettiness. He says it suited him as a climber really well. The name refers to the relentless difficulty. He had bolted it very early, a couple of years before the actual ascent; back then it had been the only route on the shorter, right wall at Trautner Gedenkwand and it stayed like this for a few years more, which made the line the more aesthetically pleasing.
Werner likes to comment a quick hard ascent with “had luck” but the truth is, he’s got a (rare) talent for performing when the odds align in his favour. Once he knows the route lies within his ability, he needs a good conditions day and more often than not, he can pull off the ascent, managing the mental aspect of it all really well.
He remains an active climber, as passionate as ever (although he'd rather express it with something like: "naja, geht so") and going strong. Apart from Franken, he enjoys a trip further south from time to time where he can taste different limestone and wine - though Franconian beer seems to remain his favourite beverage.
Though Werner doesn’t really have a favourite crag, he does especially enjoy the breathtaking rock formations in the Burggrub area ("not even the moves, but the rock itself"), which are not only pretty but also close to home.
1 Comment
mitol
1/18/2025 01:21:18 pm
My HERO ! 💚🔴 So strong and modest! Still crushing!
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